The watchmaking world often thrives on subtle details, and Bell & Ross has just released a new addition to its BR-05 collection that exemplifies this philosophy. The Bell & Ross BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic is nearly identical to a model unveiled last year, but with a few minor tweaks to its design that give it a slightly darker and more monochromatic feel.
While these kinds of subtle updates are common in the world of horology, it’s hard to ignore the déjà vu that hits when you first lay eyes on this release.
The BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic might seem like a carbon copy of the 2024 BR-05 Skeleton Black Ceramic, but a closer look reveals the difference: the new model features black lume and matching black hands and hour markers, whereas its predecessor sported white lume with polished frames
. The result is a dial that almost disappears into the black ceramic case, offering a striking but minimalist look.
While the BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic is a limited edition of just 500 pieces, it’s difficult to shake the feeling that Bell & Ross could have made this release feel a little more special. The brand has long been known for its Phantom colorway, first introduced with the BR-01 Phantom back in 2007, and many of their models have since received the same treatment. However, when you compare this model to its standard-production sibling, the differences are so minimal that it raises questions about whether this release is truly necessary.
The watch’s case is crafted from black ceramic, offering a combination of brushed and polished finishes. With a diameter of 41mm and a thickness of 11.2mm, it’s a size that should fit most wrists comfortably.
The watch features a flat sapphire crystal protecting the dial, and a display caseback that showcases the movement inside. The watch also offers 100 meters of water resistance, thanks to its screw-down crown placed between two guards at the 3 o’clock position.
Inside, the watch runs on the Bell & Ross BR-CAL.322-1 automatic movement, which is essentially a skeletonized version of the Sellita SW300. With a power reserve of 54 hours and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz), it’s a reliable and serviceable movement, though some collectors might balk at the idea of paying nearly $10,000 for a watch powered by a Sellita-based movement.
The watch is available with either a black ceramic bracelet or a black rubber strap, with both options featuring folding clasps made from stainless steel and coated with black PVD for a seamless finish. The dial, like other skeletonized models in the BR-05 line, is transparent, revealing the intricate workings of the movement beneath. The subtle smoked sapphire in the center of the dial adds to the overall dark aesthetic, and while the black lume on the hands and indexes may seem less bright during the day, it still glows green in the dark.
With a retail price of $8,900 USD for the rubber strap version and $9,800 USD for the ceramic bracelet model, the BR-05 Skeleton Phantom Ceramic is priced slightly higher than the standard-production BR-05 Skeleton Black Ceramic. Although the Phantom edition is undeniably striking, it’s hard not to feel that Bell & Ross is rehashing ideas that have been done before. Perhaps it’s time for them to push the boundaries and come up with something truly fresh.